There are Four wild routes displayed for you below, these routes are:
Solar Slab 5.6 14pitch : Crimson Crysallius 5.9 9pitch :
Frog Land 5.7 6pitch : Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10b 6pitch
SOLAR SLAB
Below is the Wild and huge wall of SOLAR SLAB. This wall faces South, and there fore is one of the most popular fall/winter climb. The Purple line is Beulahs Book 5.9 4pitch. The Yellow lines are other Variations 5.8/5.9 4pitch. This wall needs lots of speed to climb to the top, the decent gullies are hideous and take just as long going down that up.
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White Route : Solar Slab 5.6
Yellow Route 5.8 4pitch
Purple Route : Beulahs Book 4Pitch
There are so many other wild looking climbs out there that no body has ever really climbed. Every moderate climber that comes out to climb, are all trying to climb the same routes, It seem that there are only a few selected routes in the grade that get published, therefore they are the only ones that get climbed. The harder routes in the book are also bold and run out. Then again, at that level, you start to really understand what your threshold is like.
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Kelly Leading Pitch 6 / 5.6
This is actually Pitch one of Solar Slab. With the link up of the Solar Slab Gullies 5.5 / 5 Pitch, you are actually on Pitch6 of the wall. The climb does not even take you to the top of the mountain, which is a real bummer, and probably the only thing that really sucked about the route. There were many easy looking lines and ways that you could climb the RED rock that is found in a layer way up high on these walls. This would make doing the route, an achievement in doing a long route to top and getting a sweet view of the area you just concurred.
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Kelly on Pitch9 of Solar Slab
The decent off this wall is the other major problem, down climbing and rappelling harder moves than you actually did on route. The remains of peoples stuck ropes in the Chimneys, the prickly Holly Oak Trees that are thrashing at your skin, and grabbing the rope to slings. This was not where I wanted to be descending into the night. We managed to rap the solar slab gullies in the dark, just as the headlamps went dead. The walk out of the canyon was quite exciting, with the dying spare headlamp.
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CRIMSON CRYSALIIUS 5.9 9pitch
The Loop road adds for extra time on this route. The hike accross the desert plateau is interesting. Bolders that may have good problems on them but no time to look. Take the obvious ramp up to the base of the chimney. There are many other lines that have been climbed on this wall and the guidebook is the best place to start. |
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Kelly at the Belay and Josee heading up Pitch one
Sometimes the best way to climb this first pitch is by climbing on the face, and then back in to retrieve a piece of gear. Then climb on the face again. The belay is interesting in that you are right in the chimney, and its already on the north side of the mountain, it can get kind of chilly in there.
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Josee taking off on Pitch 2
Climbing up the chimneys proved to be quite challenging in that the gear was interesting. Taking it out was equally interesting. We were a party of three and were moving at a good pace, two climbing at the same time. The chicken heads on the Face climbing part are so rad. Be weary for rope snag age on the way down. |
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Dave C, Kelly M, Josee L :
Summit of Crimson Crysallius
This is a rewarding place to get to on a climb; it does not however summit out on the mountain summit, but it does have a summit of its own in that it drops off all sides. We stayed on the summit to recollect the day and how much fun we had pulling down on huge chicken heads. The decent involved technical rope pulling management, if there is a wind blowing across the face be weary that you don’t get your ropes stuck. We did a couple of times. |
DREAM OF WILD TURKEYS 5.10
Kelly and Dave C. climbing p2
Dave, Josee and I hiked in that morning to climb the big black wall via Dream of Wild Turkeys. We arrived at the base of the wall and decided that Dave and I would do the route and Josee could take pictures of us on the wall. Josee agreed to that and sat on the rocks in the sun, took some cool pictures.
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Kelly leading pitch 4
The climb gets so high up that the camera could not get a good close enough shot of us. The wall was so flat and no ledges or things, so big, the route actually continues for another 8 – 10 pitches, then scrambling to the top. I will return to complete the entire route. Then maybe attempt the scary Epinephrine. We rappelled Prince of Darkness route. |
FROG LAND 5.7 : 6 Pitch
Frogland is such a fun route, the initial corners of 5.7, perfect corner crack, Josee steps up for the go. Then it was up to Dave and I to go to the top. We had a wonderful day in that it was so warm and nice out, we had a wonderful time doing the route. |
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Josee heading up Pitch 1
Once you find the start of the climb in the bushes of the desert. The start is climbing this white wall into the prominent corner. The climbing is on chicken heads and jugs of all sizes. The wall on the right it filled with chicken heads and that climbs could be all over the wall, if they allowed bolting. |
Josee enjoying the great crack climbing on Pitch one.
This was one of Josees first natural leads on a multipitch. She tends to stick to clipping bolts for here leads. This was |
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