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This place is like Candy Land, there are so many rocks arround this area, that its going to take weeks to check it all out and climb.
I would like to thank Stewart Midwinter for the great time on the trip. All of these pictures came from Stewart. We took digital photos on the trip and keep them fairly small to easily send them as emails or upload to my site. Thanks Buddy.
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Early morning on the City of the Rocks.
We drove into the area quite late and finally found some campgrounds. We drove in the first set of 10 and decided there was nothing there that appealed to us and was definitely farther to walk to the crags. We pick #19 when we say it, we though it would shelter us from the wind and any passer-bys. |
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Campgroud #19 & #20
We set up camp on the flat beds that the park has built for us. The temperature was dropping and getting cold, this was Nov.20 2001. It was a good thing I brought my minus 18 celcius bag. Stewart was sleeping in a thin summer bag with his entire fleece on; I was in my underwear, not even feeling the cold. This sweet site was so private like; I hope to get it this spring when I return to climb.
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Kelly sending Live Wire 10c
I looked at all the climbs on the wall behind the Bumbly Tower. This route is on the right most part of the cliff, and receives the afternoon sun. The route is mixed with three bolts, and seems to wander a bit, but the climbing is outstanding on wicked scoops and Huecos. From the last bolt there is a desperate move straight up to a horizontal crack (#0 & #1 Metolius crack), I found it just as well on the left side moving up the larger holds to the crack with one step back right once on it. Nice under clings. |
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Beautiful Silhouette looking through the rock hole, positioned in the side of the spire.
From the third campground, site something like 45. There is a trail that takes you to the Bumbly Tower. On the way however are some wild and crazy rocks. This one spire that we passed, had a hole right through the side, kind of cool.
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Kelly on Mystery Bolter 5.9
I am not much of a slab climber, but this route turns out to be better than it looked for me. The start seemed to climb up this easy gully with a flake sticking out. I made a hard move at bolt 4 to gain the arête, here I was able to layback a large grabs, and even finds some awesome holds. The last moves to the anchors however are probable the easiest, but then you are the most run out and the rock is not that easiest to read through here. |
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Stewart rap Tribal Boundries
Our warm up route that morning was on the other side on this rock, the climb was a two pitch 5.7 bolted, and descend this route if taking only one rope. The two pitches on the NE side is Rain Dance 5.7. After rappelling Tribal Boundaries we hung the draws on the left route and then sent the cool climb.
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Too Much Fun 5.8
Yes this wild looking long 14 bolts or something like that, is Too Much Fun 5.8. The holds are all bomber in size and they are everywhere, all the way to the top. Watch out for some rope drag, duel ropes would work well here, we only had big fat lead ropes. I figured I would skip all the bolts that would give me rope drag problems, so as I climbed I cleaned the draws off the bolts that Stewart hung before me. I ended up at the anchor with seven draws on my harness, in a 50meter climb, seven or eight bolts must have been clipped. |
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